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Fashion Week Runway Tips: Smokey Eyes 101

February 3rd, 2008 by Karen 42 Comments

Smokey eyes are all over the frickin’ place at NY Fashion Week. Check it: warm brown smokey eyes and neutral lips at the Boy By Band of Outsiders show.

boy-by-band-of-outsiders-final.jpg

Le sigh… I both love and hate this at the same time. Love it because it’s really pretty and sexy (and dare I say, smoldering); hate it because for the life of me I can’t get it right. I’ve got two left feet (hands?) when it comes to doing smokey eye looks. I aim for “stylish rave vampire” but end up more “barefoot Britney walking into a gas station restroom.”

There are times when I feel like your friendly neighborhood beauty addict won’t ever prevail over the elusive smokey eye. She’ll be forced to hang up her brushes to live a life of smokey eye-free debauchery.

Despite my proclamations of klutziness, Gordon Epsinet, Vice President of Makeup Artistry for MAC Cosmetics, insists that just about anyone (even me) can do a hot smokey eye.

How to get the look

“To do a beautiful smokey eye you must start with a fabulous dark pencil,” says Gordon. “You have to have MAC Smolder [eyeliner]. “It blends beautifully together with shadows and cream colors and MAC paints as well.”

“Start with lots of black pencil on the eye,” says Gordon. “Apply the pencil around the rim of the eye first, then blend it with the #219 brush, which looks like a fat little pencil.”

smokey-eye-tut-2.jpg

“You’re going to blend that, smudge it in a bit, so it looks like a smokey stain.”

smokey-eye-tut-3.jpg

Next, blend a dark brown eyeshadow into the black liner to create a mix of brown and black colors. Blend the brown shadow over the black pencil stain you just created. Gordon suggests using…

    MAC Espresso – muted golden brown (matte)
    MAC Brun – muted blackish brown (satin)
    MAC Mystery – muted plumish brown (satin)

For this I chose MAC Brun, and here’s what it looks like after I blended it on top of Smolder.

smokey-eye-tut-4.jpg

Gordon then suggests using a MAC #224 brush (a soft, fluffy, tapered brush), to blend a lighter eyeshadow into and above the dark brown layer you just created. His favorite colors are…

    MAC Kid – beige cashmere (veluxe)
    MAC Soba – golden brown flecked with golden shimmer (satin)

I have a MAC #224 but find it gets shadow all over the place, so I ended up using a Billy B Paint Brush #6 to apply Soba over the Brun/Smolder mix.

smokey-eye-tut-5.jpg

Ultimately, says Gordon, the final look should have the darkest colors at the lash line, and the colors should transition into lighter colors the farther you get away from the lashline.

smokey-eye-tut-6.jpg

And here I am in the final look. The only thing missing from this picture is a black beret and a copy of On the Road.

smokey-eye-look-final-karen-1-13.jpg

Okay, okay, this wasn’t as hard as I thought it was going to be. With a lil’ bit of practice, I think I’ll be able to get the color transitions to look more subtle and smoother. Come fall I’ll be ready to rock it with the other trendsetters.

smokey-eyes.jpg

Speaking of smokin’, the other night I watched Donnie Darko for the umpteenth time and was reminded of how totally unfair it is for Jake Gyllenhaal to be so hot. Why doesn’t he call and ask me to make out with him?

jake-g.jpg

Of course I’d say no (married, hi), but it would still be nice to be asked.

Anyway, if you’re hunkered down in front of a TV watching the Superbowl, I’ll be with you in spirit. Besides the tight pants and the prospect of eating profound amounts of junk food, I don’t care much for the big game, so I’ll be out and about running errands today. Eat a hot dog for me!

Your friendly neighborhood beauty addict,

Karen

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Fashion Week Runway Tips: Smokey Eyes 101 / Originally published February 3rd, 2008

There are 42 comments on this post. Leave yours.

Categories: MAC Makeup, Makeup Tips/How To

Previous Post: Fashion Week Runway Tips: Achieve a Perfect Dark Lip
Next Post: Shu Uemura Makeup Tutorial: Go Pastel for a Fresh Spring Eye

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. slvrlips says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 12:39 pm

    Hey Karen,
    This looks super easy to do. I have been trying to acheive the perfect smokey look but, everytime I come out looking a hot black-eyed mess. I’m off now to try this look out.
    Thanks for the post
    Have a great weekend
    (~_~)

    Reply
  2. TUPRNUT says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 1:32 pm

    I have got to check out the #219!!! It looks awesome!

    Donnie Darko is one of my hubby’s favs of all time. I can’t count the amount of times I have watched the film and listened to the soundtrack. That bunny is crazy and I love that Patrick Swayze is in it…so random.

    Reply
  3. Holly says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 2:28 pm

    Hi Karen,
    Wow those eyes are really effective, particularly considering how few products you used to create it!
    I think maybe my main smokey eye mistake is using too many different shadows!
    Im going to pop into Mac this week for the duo brow powders (have you tried them?) so i think i may be tempted by that liner too!
    P.s. those models are terrifying!!

    Reply
  4. Glosslizard says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 5:00 pm

    Love the fierce smokey eyes on you! Thanks for the great tutorial, now maybe I can do a smokey look that doesn’t just look like I haven’t slept in three nights! 😉

    Reply
  5. Karen says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 7:56 pm

    Hi Slvrlips!

    It is super easy. Do you have Kid or Soba? I just tried Kid this weekend and can’t wait to get it into my eyeshadow collection. You have a good weekend too! 🙂

    Reply
  6. Karen says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 8:00 pm

    Hi Tuprnut!

    The 219 is okay; I like for smudging and that’s about it. I know some like to use it for detailed work in the crease or the outer V but I can’t always get it to work right.

    I can’t count how many times I’ve seen the movie, either (“Sometimes I doubt your commitment to Sparkle Motion!”). Every time I finish watching it I have to listen to Tears for Fears a few times! 🙂

    Reply
  7. Karen says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 8:04 pm

    Hi Holly,

    I’ve seen those duo brow powders. Nothing can tear me away from my Concrete eyeshadow and my 266, though!

    While you are at MAC check out Cream Color Base in Pearl and Kid eyeshadow. An awesome makeup artist used them on me this weekend and they are pretty cool.

    Reply
  8. Karen says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 8:09 pm

    Hi Glosslizard,

    I always end up looking like a crazy panda when I try to do smokey eyes! This was thankfully not too difficult. I hope you had a great weekend! Do anything fun?

    Reply
  9. i♥makeup says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 8:43 pm

    U rock smokey eyes like no other gorgeous

    Reply
  10. jessica says

    February 3rd, 2008 at 11:29 pm

    karen,
    you looked super gorgeous in those pics 🙂
    hurray to a more refined and simplified smokey eye

    Reply
  11. Jot says

    February 4th, 2008 at 5:17 am

    Thanks for that tutorial Karen, you make it look so easy i’ll definitely be giving it a go.Hopefully my result will be just as good x

    Reply
  12. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 7:35 am

    Thanks Jessica! Happy Monday!

    Reply
  13. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 7:36 am

    Hiya Jot,

    You are very welcome. I hope your smokey eye turns out smokin’ hot! What colors do you think you’ll use?

    Reply
  14. May says

    February 4th, 2008 at 8:26 am

    Hi Karen! Great look! May I suggest that you try blending the shadow up to just above your crease for a super smoldering look?

    What do you think about the 266 vs. the 208? I have the 266 but was thinking about the 208 for a more precise application.

    Reply
  15. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 9:04 am

    Hi May,

    Thanks for the tip. I usually don’t wear smokey eyes but maybe I’ll try that next time I have a big night out.

    In regards to the 266 versus the 208, I think it really depends on what you need it for. I like the 266 only for filling in my brows with shadow. If I need to line my eyes I use a fine tipped brush like the 209, or the 212 to line the waterline.

    Reply
  16. ponikuta says

    February 4th, 2008 at 10:52 am

    Hey Karen,

    I am loving your smokey eye. You made it seem so easy. I always stuff mine up.

    Val

    Reply
  17. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 11:02 am

    Hi Val,

    Thanks, girl! This was super easy – magic words to a lazy beast like me. I’ve found out thing that really helps is to go easy on the color. It’s always easier to add color than to accidentally add to much and have to take it away. So, dilute, dilute, dilute and go slowly!

    Happy Monday!

    Reply
  18. May says

    February 4th, 2008 at 11:33 am

    Thanks, Karen! For some reason, I always thought you lined your eyes with the 266. I was also thinking about the 209 as well. Grr… decisions, decisions.

    Reply
  19. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 12:33 pm

    Hi May,

    I find the 266 a lil’ too stiff to get too close to my lashline. 209 gives you great flexibility because you can draw a very thin line but can also build it up if you need to. Plus, it’s comfy and doesn’t hurt or feel scratchy, and you can use it on your waterline, too. If there was one brush I’d recommend out of the three that’s the one.

    What are you going to be using the brush with? If you’re using the 209 for Fluidline it’s most excellent. Another option for Fluidline is the covered lip brush, the 316!

    Reply
  20. kia says

    February 4th, 2008 at 12:38 pm

    *snapping fingers* fabulous darling!

    Reply
  21. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 12:39 pm

    Thanks girlfriend! I hope your week is off to a good start, Kia! 🙂

    Reply
  22. Tania says

    February 4th, 2008 at 3:40 pm

    Totally diggin the smokey eye thing. Problem though is that it looks wierd on my lower last line. Will keep practicing though. However I DID master applying Studio Fix Fluid without looking like one of my cupcakes. Thanks for the tips and keep up the good postings!!

    Reply
  23. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 3:43 pm

    Hi Tania,

    Thanks girl! I here ya about not really feeling the color on the lower lash line. I’m usually just an upper lash line kinda girl but have been trying to break out of my shell. I think with a little practice it will get easier for you. If you have a digital camera that helps, too. That way you can really see what your work looks.

    Congrats on mastering the art of the Studio Fix! I wish I could wear it (looks great in pictures) but it always breaks me out, boo hoo. 🙁

    Anyway, I hope you had a good Monday!

    Reply
  24. Mrs. Lynne says

    February 4th, 2008 at 5:46 pm

    That is definitely smokey mi’lady! Nice.

    Reply
  25. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 6:02 pm

    Yo, thanks Mrs. Lynne. I can’t wait to try it with other colors, like smokey blues!

    Reply
  26. Jacks says

    February 4th, 2008 at 6:36 pm

    Thanks so much for this tutorial, Karen!
    I always thought I could never pull of the smokey eye because of my Filipino eyes (ALWAYS jealous of my creased-eye friends back in high school hehe), but after going through the steps I must say I was successful! I couldn’t wait to go buy the MAC products suggested in your tutorial so I made due with what I had: MAC Icon Eyes eye kohl, dark brown Chanel and light browny-gold Napoleon Perdis eyeshadows. And it worked out splendidly!
    Looking forward to more of your tutorials! =)

    Reply
  27. Karen says

    February 4th, 2008 at 8:31 pm

    Yay Jacks!!! I’m so glad that it went well for you. I was thinking the other day that there’s so many ways you can modify this, like, use some blues or greens over smolder, or maybe even a goldish color like Woodwinked might look pretty too.

    BTW, if you do end up going to pick up the products for sure pick up Kid or Soba! 🙂

    Reply
  28. Jot says

    February 5th, 2008 at 1:09 am

    Hi Karen, I tried this look in my night class last night (i’m doing beauty therapy)with random browns and it looked great on my model.
    I had a quick go this morning and with some practise it will hopefully get there. I just used what i had in the house which was black kohl, embark for the lash line and gold stroke for the lid x

    Reply
  29. May says

    February 5th, 2008 at 6:16 am

    Before I got the 266, I used the 316SE for lining with fluidlines 🙂 Do you think the 209 is better for tightlining or 316? I really appreciate your advice, Karen! I love your blog, lol. And the pics of Mr. Bale :Þ..

    Reply
  30. Karen says

    February 5th, 2008 at 7:41 am

    Hi Jot,

    Beauty therapy sounds interesting. How long have you been doing it?

    I think I have Embark (it’s around here some where, LOL!) and Gold Stroke, so I might try the look you did for my makeup today! 🙂

    Reply
  31. Karen says

    February 5th, 2008 at 7:47 am

    Hi May,

    When I do tightlining I use a variety of brushes (whatever is clean!), but honestly I find that most often I reach for the 212 because it gets the job done quickly. The 209 works but takes slightly longer.

    Thank *you* for reading and commenting! I always enjoy meeting new people and helping them! Have a good day. 🙂

    Reply
  32. Amanda says

    February 5th, 2008 at 11:30 am

    another GREAT tutorial! yay!

    I’m so glad I’ve been doing smokey eyes “right”, LOL. I only figured out this technique earlier in the fall, but have loved it ever since. I use the “smudge-y pencil liner first” method too, but usually just use the darker powder on my lower lash line….

    Again, so glad brown will be in this fall, and I also love using this look for either a green smokey eye or blue smokey eye. 🙂

    Reply
  33. Karen says

    February 5th, 2008 at 12:51 pm

    Hi Amanda!

    One thing to try is Woodwinked or Mulch over a smudge-y black pencil. It’s beyoootiful!

    Reply
  34. Hillary says

    February 5th, 2008 at 2:15 pm

    Wow! Smoky eyes look GREAT on you! I can’t seem to pull it off. I have fair skin, and blue, very deep set eyes. It always makes me look like a raccoon after a few hours, and my eyes look totally hollow. It sort of ages me. I love how it looks with brown eyes, though. Work those bedroom eyes, you sexy thang! 🙂

    Reply
  35. Karen says

    February 5th, 2008 at 8:33 pm

    Thanks Hillary!

    Hmmm, have you ever tried using a gold color? If you can’t handle a full on smokey eye, one modification that I like to do is to use a gold shadow like Woodwinked on top of a black eye pencil. It’s very subtle and pretty, yet still smokey 🙂

    Reply
  36. Hillary says

    February 6th, 2008 at 2:23 pm

    Thanks Karen! I’ll give it a try.

    Reply
  37. Karen says

    February 6th, 2008 at 2:32 pm

    You’re welcome! I hope it works out. 🙂

    Reply
  38. Jot says

    February 7th, 2008 at 2:47 am

    Thanks Karen.
    Did you try the embark, goldstroke version? I like the idea of woodwinked too so i’ll have to try that sometime.
    My beauty therapy is just a 20 week course which is nearly over 🙁 its been good fun though
    x

    Reply
  39. Kirsty says

    February 21st, 2008 at 6:51 am

    I just tried this look on a whim – it looks ace!

    I’m always scared of looking too made up or gothy in black liner like that, but the brown on top makes it so wear able!

    I’m going to have to check out some of the MAC browns though – I’m in the UK, so all mine are from Boots and a little too light!

    Reply
  40. Almira says

    September 24th, 2008 at 2:07 pm

    Your eyes… your eyes are beautiful! <333333! I’ll probably practice this a million times before I’m even close, but I’ll definately print this as a reference.

    Almiras last blog post..How To: Get a Job, Pt 2.

    Reply
  41. luckymirai says

    February 20th, 2009 at 6:40 pm

    Hi Karen,
    this is a very sexy look and easy makeup to do. You look very pretty. Thanks for sharing.
    xoxoox

    luckymirai´s last blog post..TAG: What I am using right now ?

    Reply
  42. Claire says

    October 18th, 2009 at 12:15 pm

    I love the smokey eye. It’s timeless

    Reply

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About Makeup and Beauty Blog

Welcome to Makeup and Beauty Blog
Hi there! I’m Karen, your friendly neighborhood beauty addict, and I’m a Bay Area girl who hoards brown eyeshadow and covets coral lipstick. Every morning, I wake up and say, “I’m going to do something other than a smoky eye today.” Then…I end up doing a smoky eye anyway (most days). When I’m not putting on makeup, taking pictures of makeup or writing about makeup, which I’ve been doing daily since 2007 (!), you’ll find me hanging out with my hubby (“El Hub”), my four-year-old daughter (Connor Claire) and my torbie girl cat (Pretty Girl Rosie, a.k.a. PGR).

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