No Crease? No Problem. In-Crease Your Eye Makeup Skills With These 5 Monolid Makeup Tips

Published in: Guest Post, Makeup Tips/How To

SunnyAbout the Author
The following guest post was written by Sunny of Mostly Sunny blog. You can also find Sunny on Twitter and Facebook.

Despite the fact that it’s impossible to generalize “Asian eyes” in a single word, monolids seem to be one of the traits most commonly associated with them. Monolids are characterized by the lack of a prominent crease, and monolidded eyes are usually more almond shaped than round.

I remember thinking how unfair it was as a child that I ended up with my father’s monolidded eyes, while my mother and one of my brothers have a prominent crease. It took me years to see how both were beautiful in their own way, and now my monolids aren’t something I try to work around, but something I enjoy working with!

Sure, round eyes with pronounced creases are beautiful, but so are almond-shaped eyes without a crease. :)


My naked eye

Now, I know that it’s also impossible to generalize even among people with monolids, as there are different shapes and techniques, and people will sometimes prefer one method over another. Ultimately, it all comes down to what you like and feel comfortable with.

Nowadays, there are even eyelid tapes and glues available to create a crease, if you think it helps you apply makeup, and some even find that applying false lashes gives their eyelids a fold.

In general, I don’t believe in hard and fast rules when it comes to makeup, and I think you should do whatever you’re most comfortable with. The following tips are just some things that have worked well for me.

I know that many readers who come across this post might not have monolids themselves, but why not keep these tips in mind for a friend who does?


The MAC 217 Blending Brush

Tip 1: Blend, blend, blend!

As important as blending is when it comes to eyeshadow application, I think it’s even more important for those of us with monolids, because we lack a natural demarcation between our eyes and brow bones, so if we apply a patch of color right on top of our eyes without blending, it can look a bit unnatural.


Unblended eyeshadow

In the picture below, I’m wearing Urban Decay Verve on the inner half of my eye and Busted on the outer. Personally, I think that once the eyeshadows have been blended, they appear more natural, and add more dimension to the look than a simple patch of color.


Blended eyeshadow

Tip 2: (Don’t) work it into your crease

If you don’t have one, why fight it? I know that dramatic cut-crease looks are gorgeous on our double-lidded counterparts, but if we’re not careful, they can easily look overdone, and dare I say it, a little fake.

While it’s not impossible to emphasize the outer v and bring a bit of the color into our (imaginary) crease, I try to do it with an easily blendable color using a blending brush instead of a pencil brush; otherwise, it can take a looong time to blend the harsh line out afterwards!


Defined outer v

Here, I dipped the tip of my MAC 217 Blending Brush into Urban Decay Blackout and used that to define my outer v. This step is entirely optional, and I rarely do it (or seldom use a shade as dark as Blackout; luckily, it is very blendable). I think it does show, however, that it is possible to define your outer v with the right kind of brush and a light hand, without “working it into your crease.”


Gel liner

Tip 3: Walk the line

Good news for monolidders! Not only does eyeliner give your eyes amazing definition, you can usually get away with using more than our counterparts with a prominent crease!

For my lower lash lines, I use either a gel liner or a pencil, but for my upper lash lines, I only use gels, because once they’re on, they’re loyal till the end! You can also tightline with them, lining right on the lash line to fill in the gaps, making your lashes appear more voluminous, which already makes quite a difference.


Tightlined

You can also make a little wing to give your eyes more oomph!

Here’s a trick I use often: I’ll line my lower lash lines first. That way, I know where the angle of my upper lash line should go. If you look at this picture, you can see where I’ve already made a little indicator of where the angle of my upper lash line should go.

May I recommend the Bdellium Tools 760 Liner/Brow Brush (shown above on the right)? It has the precision of a pointed eyeliner brush and draws the clean lines of an angled eyeliner brush.

If you’re looking for more drama, you can drag it out, or make the line really thick at the outer corner. But for everyday looks, I find this sufficient. I personally prefer to restrict the line only to my lash line for the inner half, and drag it up as I go towards the outer corner.

Also, if you want your eyes to look more open, stop short of lining your lower lash line all the way in, which can have the opposite effect. I start lining my lower lash line where I can actually see some lashes. Right at the inner corners of my eyes the lashes are tiny, and that’s the part I leave alone.

I also like to smudge some eyeshadow over my lower lash line, not only to soften it down, but also because I think it helps pencil liner stay put (see the pictures in the next step). If you’re new to gel liner, I highly recommend you go over the line with an eyeshadow as well. That way, even if your line isn’t perfect, you’ll still be able to get away with it! :)


Lined eye


The MAC 219 Pencil Brush

Tip 4: Let there be light! — in those inner corners

Especially when you aren’t using a light, shimmery shade on the inner half of your lids, highlighting the inner corners really opens up the eyes. It makes a big difference! And I love my pencil brush for this, as my inner corners are quite small. The MAC 219 makes this kind of detailed work a cinch.


Highlighted inner corners

Also, remember that part of my lower lash line I left unlined? Putting a bit of your highlighter shade there will make your eyes appear rounder and more opened-up!


Waterproof mascara

Tip 5: Make waterproof mascara your new best friend

Waterproof mascara isn’t perfect. It can be a hassle to remove, and some of them leave lashes stiff and crunchy, but from my experience they’re generally much better at holding the curl than non-waterproof varieties. A good tube of curl-holding mascara can make all the difference in the world for monolidded eyes. It opens them up like nothing else!


The finished look!

It’s probably the tip here that makes the BIGGEST difference. I feel that even if I do nothing else in the morning, curling my eyelashes makes me look more awake, and if you want your eyelashes to stand at attention all day long, waterproof mascaras are a great bet.

Well, I hope you found something useful among these tips! :) If you have any other tips to share, please leave a comment, as the discussion is likely to benefit many others looking for monolid makeup tips.

Last but not least, remember, we’re all beautiful in our own way.

Sunny, your beauty culture translator xx

SunnyAbout the Author
This guest post was written by Sunny of Mostly Sunny blog. You can also find Sunny on Twitter and Facebook.

64 Comments

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  1. Bee says:

    loved this feature :) I have hooded lids and this is very useful for eyes like mine too :)
    thanks dear :)

    btw- what gel liners do u reco? I have the Inglot one and it messes my eyes within an hour :(

    • Hey Bee! I’m glad you find it useful :)

      I really like the Maybelline gel liner. I have since then purchased a MAC one which works just as well. I have yet to try Bobbi Brown, but it is also a brand that is very famous for gel liners. Hope it helps!

  2. Shery says:

    THANK YOU for this post. It helps so much. My eyes are pretty much the same as yours and eye makeup is so hard for me. I mean all those tutorials where people say to “blend into your crease”; I always felt so left out! haha! you look fantastic so that gives me confidence ^^ ! I have a question: what eyelash curler do you use (I can never find one that actually reaches my lashes… and judging by the pics mine are approx the same length as yours)? I feel like the curlers I’ve used are always too “curved” so they just don’t fit my eyeshape at all…

    • Hey Shery, I’m really really glad to hear that I could help! It took me years to realize while crease is pretty, not having one is equally pretty, so I hope these tips will work for you!

      I use the Shiseido curler. It’s great, though it does tend to miss out on my outer corners. They also have a tiny one for that purpose which I haven’t tried. I’ve heard great things about the Shu Uemura one too, but I haven’t tried it. See if you can try it out at a counter to see how it works for ya? xx

  3. This is a really great post! I do have a crease, but I have one hooded eye (and one non) – at least I think that’s what’s going on with my eye shape – so I love reading about different techniques, even if they aren’t meant for me sometimes the tips prove really helpful!
    Emi at Project Swatch recently posted … Burberry Midnight Brown Sheer Eyeshadow Review, Swatches, Photos

    • Hey Emi! My eyelids are evenly creaseless, but I understand your pain because my bestie has uneven eyelids too (sometimes she wakes up with one crease, so she does use eyelid tape to help even that out). I hope you’ll find some tricks that work for you! :)

  4. Teri says:

    Oh Sunny, I love this post! I was thinking about it lately, it’s a whole different technique to work with, but when I see your make-up it’s always very pretty and neatly done! I really agree with the great tips you gave here!
    Teri recently posted … MAC Cheque Donation & DAA Pop-Up Opening

  5. Laura H says:

    That was a fantastic article Sunny ! Very helpful !

  6. Jen says:

    This is a great post! I’m one of those lucky Asian people who actually has double eyelids, but some of my friends don’t, so these tips are great.

    I love the finished look! You’re so pretty. :)
    Jen recently posted … still alive

  7. Vicki says:

    I found this post really interesting Sunny. I’m Caucasian but I remember my Japanese friend once telling me she was jealous of my double lids and I didn’t know what she meant to start with.

    I think that us women tend to be critical of ourselves, and whatever background we are from there is at least one thing we zoom in on, but it goes to show that with some careful make up tricks we can achieve what we desire!

    • LOL I know what you mean! When I started talking about monolids and double lids most of my Caucasian friends have NO idea what I’m talking about!

      I think people should be happy about who they are and what they look like. That’s part of the motivation behind my blog :)

  8. Anitacska says:

    I think Asian eyes are just so beautiful. ♥
    Anitacska recently posted … FOTD: Mac In Extra Dimension

  9. Marina says:

    Hi sunny, you look beautiful on these photos :)
    Marina recently posted … Photos Of The Week. Vol 2

  10. Naomi says:

    Thanks for the tips Sunny! I don’t have monolids but a small crease so these tips may work well on me anyway!
    Naomi recently posted … Hitting the Beach with a China Glaze Flirty Tankini

  11. Katherine G says:

    Great tips! I don’t have monolids but I did enjoy the tips on blending (as I don’t always blend my shadows the best, especially if I’m in a hurry). Your eyes look amazing! The Cover Girl mascara is a good one – for waterproof, I also like Maybelline Lash Stiletto. It gives a patent leather shine :)

  12. Phil says:

    I LOL’d at the title, nice walk through Sunny ;)

  13. Melissa says:

    Hey Sunny great article, I have super hooded lids – droopy :-( so I can relate to having to do my eye makeup differently from the average girl. No cat eye for me :-( and most of my beautiful eyeshadow can never been seen. So I have to work with what I have. It was nice to read about a different type of eye shape and how to work with it. Make the best of what we have instead of cursing it :-)

    • Thanks Melissa! I think everybody’s eyes are beautiful and tricky in their own ways, so why not make the best out of them? I hope you have found technique that works for you. I know that cat eyes are big now, and some people happen to wear them well. However, I’m pretty sure in a couple of years something else will rise to prominence, and it’ll probably be something you can wear very well!

  14. Great article, although I don’t have that problem but the step by step tutorial is great :)

  15. Sarah S. says:

    Your eyes are so beautiful! And you’ve definitely shown amazing ways to emphasize this eye shape in a gorgeous way :)

  16. What a fantastic article, Sunny! Your makeup looked absolutely fantastic, I think this was an AWESOME break down!

  17. Jessica says:

    Thank you so much for this article! Eyeshadow has always been tricky for me. I do like using a pencil brush for my inner corners though! Makes it so easy to highlight :) I’m currently searching for a new mascara, what would you suggest besides the Lashblast? If only waterproof formulas weren’t so darn hard to remove…

    • Marte says:

      I love Clinique’s Lash power mascara. It’s waterproof, but easily removed with luke warm water, such as in the shower etc. Perfect for slightly greasy monolids!

      • Hmm I’ve actually recently tried some non-waterproof mascara that works really well in terms of holding curls. Fairy Drops Platinum (it’s water resistant but not waterproof. Very easy to remove. I can do it with Bioderma, not even a bi-phase one), Diorshow New Look (admitted a more expensive option, but my curls troop on with this on top of the lengthening/volumizing benefits), and Max Factor False Lash Effect (though I heard it’s not available in the US). Mascara doesn’t tend to smudge too much on me, so I hope this helps! I’m still in the process of testing out A LOT of mascara (I can count 9… crazy eh?), so if you ask me in another while I’ll be able to give you more info hopefully!

  18. Christina says:

    I don’t have mono-lids however the pun in the title of “in-crease” totally got me. So punny. I love it!!

    (ps. it’s funny how the grass is always greener. I, creased-eyed reader, wished for eyes like yours for years before accepting my creases. We, as humans, are all so alike in so many ways it’s lovely :))
    Christina recently posted … Target Cos Bar Nail Polish Swatch in BRONZE

    • What seriously? You have nooo idea. When I was growing up I really had an inferiority complex because I’ve got no crease! I wish my parents had sat me down and told me I’m pretty in my way, but I guess I never really told them how I felt about this either.

      You’re right about the grass always being greener on the other side!

  19. Stacie says:

    Great article! I find that waterproof works best without mono lids as well!

  20. Kayleigh says:

    Great article, I enjoyed it even though I am definitely not monolidded! I’m not Asian at all but I have “Asian eyelashes” – impossible to curl. I find CoverGirl LashBlast Waterproof (original formula) to be the ONLY mascara that holds my curl all day – it really is a lifesaver! The last few years I won’t even try another brand, this one is the HG for me!

  21. Aifang ♥ says:

    aaaah ~ its about time! ^^ i’ve always had monolids, although no-one who i know of in my family is asian, and no-one who may’ve actually HAD monolids is still alive, so i’ve always been kind of frustrated when it comes to make up and managing it without looking/feeling silly. i never knew if i was putting it on right, and always got confused about why i looked so different growing up. at one point i really hated them – even considered that eyelid glue stuff – but i loooove them now because i dont know anyone else who isnt asian with facial features and eyes such as my own lol c: and now i can actually USE the truck loads of make up i have im even happier. thank you soooo muchhh!!!!!! ♥ ♥ ♥ ~

    P.S. – you’re so beautiful !! ToT

    • Hey Aifang, you can’t imagine how happy I am to read your comment! I used to hate mine too, but now I really appreciate them! Once you figure a thing or two out the rest will come! Have fun playing with your stash and stay happy and beautiful!

  22. Annabelle says:

    THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!
    Im 17 and i just got into the whole eye makeup thing (i used to wear only mascara lipgloss and blush) i realised that my makeup was not entirely finished, like i missed something on my face. I watched A LOT of videos on youtube for monolids, they were not very helpful because i could barely see what they were doing. But now with all these pictures im ready to go out with eyeshadow:)
    I cannot thank you more :)
    And you look gorgeous by the way! xoxo

    • Aww I’m glad I can help, Annabelle! If you think it looks unfinished try to do something with your eyebrows. Eyeliner and mascara are important for everyone, but probably especially for those of us with monolids! Play with different things and see what works the best for you. If you have more questions you know where to find me :)

  23. Samantha says:

    Hi Sunny,
    Thanks so much for this! I have monolids and it’s been a struggle, especially when I’m surrounded by Caucasian friends who love makeup. I’m so glad to learn that I *can* do the cat-eye that’s currently fairly popular and the blending is something I will definitely take note of.
    And @ what Christina commented about wanting monolids: it was really refreshing to read that, making me realize that while I’ve always thought negatively about my Asian attributes in a white world, there are still some left to appreciate that different kind of beauty.
    I do have one question, however, how long does this look take for you to complete?

    • Hey Smantha, thanks so much for your comment! I can relate very well how you feel, and of course you can totally do a cat eye! That works really well for me personally :)

      I think it’s not just about accepting Asian attributes in the white world. I grew up in Taiwan where double lids are preferred, so I ended up with a bit of a complex for the first 20-something years of my life. It happens everywhere!

      For my eyes, the look I’m showing here is pretty basic. I can get it done in about 5 minutes, but in the beginning it took me forever to get the liner right! If you’re just learning how to work with eyeliners, make sure you give yourself at least 10 minutes for your eyes. It’s much better to take your time and get it right than trying to rush everything and ending up having to remove it all! Hope this helps :)

  24. Marnie says:

    Thanks for the article. The best one I have read! I am Caucasian with monolids. Just recently learned the term and have decided to look for some tips! Thanks!

  25. Anne says:

    I remember any time I had my makeup done at counters, they’d try to fake a really ugly crease on me. It took me foreeverr to learn how to do my makeup right! It was all thanks to blogs and YT tutorials (which were pretty scarce for monolids 6 years ago–took me forever to find them lol)

  26. Carrie says:

    I just found this on Karen’s website by mistake and what a surprise! I have monolids and have NEVER known how to do my makeup. Thank you so much for this tutorial – I am dying to try it out!

  27. little girl says:

    Hello, I am a very small (1,58m) Korean girl! :-) I live in Germany,so I have German friends who ALL have a crease! I have a very big complex about my monolids (and about my height too!) and I’ve watched many YouTube videos already and I was on dfifferent websites too! And the problem was: even if the people said they have a monolid, they actually had a very small crease! So I was disappointed and thought that nobody would have a ‘complet’ monolid (I only have one Korean friend in Germany and she has a small crease…. :$ :D ). Well however, after these disappointing experiences I FINALLY found your post Sunny! Someone who has the exact same monolid as I do! I’m o happy! Thank you soooooo much! :))))))) <3

  28. Kate M. says:

    Please please please make more how-to’s/tutorials on monolids! I love experimenting on makeup and watch countless videos but it’s so difficult to apply it on my own eyes!

    BTW… This post really helped! Thank you!

  29. Sandy says:

    Hey Sunny, I have thick monolids, I always have to draw thick eyeline in order to see it from the front. But this would cover most of my eyeshadow on the lids. What can I do? :c

    • Sunny says:

      Hey Sandy! Thanks for the question!

      My monolids as you can see are pretty thick too, and it’s almost impossible for eyeliners to be visible from the front. I am not too fussed about that though. If you look at the picture of me looking down, you will see a little line on my lids (I guess that’s the monolid equivalent of a crease). My eyeliner almost never gets above that, and I think it’s thick enough to have enough impact while not overwhelming my eyes with a ring of black. I do like to wing my eyeliner out quite a bit so the wing is more than visible, but other than that you don’t see the line when my eyes are open.

      I think eyeliner is important for monolidders, and it definitely does a lot for us. However, it can achieve that without being immediately visible when our eyes are open!

      A type of look I like to do is finding a good eyeliner or fatty pencil and lining the eyes thickly with it before blending it up and out (though it definitely wouldn’t be blended up as high as my normal lid shades). I usually finish by highlighting my inner corners and going over the pencil on my lower lash line with a pressed eyeshadow (to help it last longer), Sometimes I soften the edge with a nude eyeshadow before patting my gel liner into the roots of my lash. You definitely don’t see the eyeliner this way, but it still adds some intensity. The result is a soft halo of shadow around the eyes. I think it emphasizes the almond shape really well!

      Try it and let me know how you like it? :)

      • Sandy says:

        I think it’s quite to apply eye shadows on my eyelids, I always end up looking being punched in the eyes! How can avoid that? thank you

        • Sunny says:

          Hey Sandy! The trick is keeping the shade you use for the inner half of your lids light. It doesn’t have to be very shimmery/glittery, but I’ve found something that reflects light helps. Choose a contour shade that blends out easily, and when you bring it inwards, look straight on at the mirror. Try not to blend the contour shade over your pupils if that makes sense. If you are doing a smokey eye and find it turning out too dark, pat a shimmery/metallic shade in the center of your lids (where your iris is). It makes a difference! Hope this helps :)

  30. Lucy says:

    Hi Sunny

    I have a make up question I cant seem to find the answer to. I have double lidded eyes and have the problem that make up collects in the crease and causes an unsightly line. I have dark circles under my eyes and the YSL touche eclat concealer is my savior(!) and really brightens my whole face up but this tends to need an eye cream put on before to help blending. Then the creases come pretty soon afterwards. Im not willing to live without the concealer (so dramatic!)..I tried the garnier one and thankfully it didnt have the same problem, but like many concealers it really isnt anywhere near as effective on the dark circles, so what are my options re what eye cream is best and what concealer is best all round and if there’s any tricks?

    I also find that if i use many eye liners- generally the pencil based ones and some of the gel ones- they smudge onto my upper eyelids which are a bit hooded and it creates a dark smudgey arc. I generally use a L’oreal gel/ink liner which is great, and doesnt smudge but what can i use if I want a softer look that wont smudge, or if I want to try some other, brighter colours which are more readily available in pencil form? Do you know a good brand of ink eyeliners that has different colours, like blues? Thanks so much :)

    • Sunny says:

      Hey Lucy! Do you use a primer for your eyeshadows? The creasing and smudging problems can usually be solved with one! Among the eye creams I have tried, the one that moisturizes enough so my concealer stays put yet not so greasy that everything smudges soon is Pai Echium eye cream. I’m still experimenting with different ones, but so far that works the best for me.

      If you want a softer look but can’t seem to find anything else that stays put (though do try a primer. They work wonders), try to smudge the liner out with an eyeshadow! That will soften the line down. One liquid eyeliner that works really well for me is the Eyeko one and they do have a blue (as well as olive, brown…). I hope all this helps!

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