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10 Tips to Help You Do a Better Smokey Eye

December 26th, 2009 by Karen 44 Comments

makeup artist allison barbera

Written by Allison Barbera

Today Allison of Allison Barbera Makeup Artistry breaks down the Little Black Dress of the eye makeup world.

10-smokey-eye-tips

The Smokey Eye.

Some call it the Little Black Dress of the makeup world — sexy, fun, flirty, and definitely attention-grabbing. It’s also the number one request I get as a makeup artist. And with the right tools, products, and application techniques, it can be just as easy as slipping into your knock ’em dead little black dress.

My Top Ten Smokey Eye Tips

1. Start with the eyes

loreal-eye-makeup-remover

It may seem natural to apply your face makeup first, but doing your eyes first will save you time (and possibly frustration). Since you’re probably going to get some shadow fallout and smudging, it’s much easier to do a quick swipe with some makeup remover on bare skin than on skin that’s already been made-up. I’ve been using L’Oreal Eye Makeup Remover ($7) for years and love it!

2. Use a primer

too-faced-shadow-insurance-small

I recommend using a primer under all of your shadows, but it’s especially important with a smokey eye. The primer gives a smooth, even base, which is necessary for all the blending that goes on with a smokey eye. Primer also makes the shadow last longer and prevents creasing. I use Too Faced Shadow Insurance ($17) for smokey eyes and all of my other looks.

3. Have a good selection of colors in the same color family

You can do a black smokey eye, a silver one, a teal one — whatever you want. But since the point of a smokey eye is to have the colors form a gradient — from darkest to lightest — it helps to have a variety of shadows to work with. For example, if you’re doing a black smokey eye, you’ll want a dark black shadow, a lighter black shadow, a couple of grays, and a white or silver (for highlight). A palette like the Coastal Scents 88 Color Palette ($19) makes things easy by grouping similar colors together.

4. Keep an eyeliner handy

urban-decay-24-7

Eyeliner accessorizes smokey eyes like killer heels do for the LBD. I recommend pencil, crayon or gel formulas, as liquid liners dry quickly and are harder to smudge. You’re going to need a liner to line the top lashline, the bottom lashline, and the waterline. But relax, you don’t need to draw a perfect line, because the liner is meant to blend right into the shadow. When doing a smokey eye, I always find myself reaching for the Urban Decay 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencils ($17).

5. Use a few good quality brushes

You’ll need a flat shader brush to apply shadow to the lid, a mid-sized brush for the crease, a pencil brush to work on the tearduct and lashline, and a fluffy brush to blend and apply highlight color. I prefer brushes from MAC and CVS’s Essence of Beauty line.

6. Blend, blend, blend

The last thing you want are obvious lines where one color has ended and another has begun. Use that fluffy brush to blend out any harsh lines. When blending the crease color, use small circular motions to “smoke it out.” Gently wipe the brush on the back of your hand to remove color before blending each new section.

7. Apply a shadow slightly lighter than your skin to the browbone

nars-madrague

After you have applied the lid and crease colors, dip the fluffy brush into the shadow and sweep it across your browbone, using a windshield wiper motion. You want the skintone shadow to slighty overlap the top of the crease shadow. MAC eyeshadow in Vanilla ($15) is perfect for light skin, the darker brown in the NARS Madrague Eyeshadow Duo ($32) works well on medium skin, and MAC Soft Brown ($15) is great for darker skin.

8. Apply a highlight color

nars-copacabana

You don’t need much — just a dot on the center of the browbone (blended out to the end of the brow), some above the tearduct, and some under the tearduct. This brightens up the eye, which is important with heavy eye makeup looks. I love using a little of NARS the Multiple in Copacabana ($37) on the browbone. For the tearducts, any shimmery silver, white, gold, or even light pink (depending on your other color selections) will work.

9. Go for lots of lashes

diorshow-blackout

Load up that mascara on your top lashes. Wiggle the wand at the roots to build volume, and, holding the wand still, blink into the wand to add length. Apply a little mascara to the bottom lashes, but keep it minimal. I find that using a regular formula on the top lashes works well, but I usually apply a waterproof formula to the bottom lashline, since those lashes are more likely to cause smudges when the eye waters. I love Dior Diorshow Blackout ($24) for a smokey eye. False lashes, whether they are flares (bunches of 8 or so lashes ) or strip lashes, make the smokey eye even more dramatic. I like both the flares and strips from Ardell.

10. Don’t forget the rest of the face

I like at least a medium coverage foundation with a smokey eye, some bronzer, a little blush, and a neutral lip. Pinky beige or nude lip colors, whether gloss, lipstick, or a combination, work best. Revlon Matte Lipstick in Nude Attitude ($8) and Lancome Juicy Tubes in Hallucination ($18), worn alone or together, look gorgeous with almost any smokey eye.

Like the Little Black Dress, the smokey eye is a classic, and there’s one out there for everyone. 🙂 Experiment with different colors and levels of intensity until you find your signature smokey eye. With a little practice and a lot of mascara, you’ll get it perfect.

makeup artist allison barbera

Written by Allison Barbera

This post was written by Allison of Allison Barbera Makeup Artistry, a freelance makeup artist and licensed esthetician. Allison’s loved makeup as long as she can remember. In elementary school, she got in trouble for doing all of her friends’ makeup. A fan of NARS, MAC and Make Up For Ever, Allison also loves soft serve ice cream and Notorious B.I.G.

10 Tips to Help You Do a Better Smokey Eye / Originally published December 26th, 2009

There are 44 comments on this post. Leave yours.

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Comments

  1. Delia says

    December 26th, 2009 at 3:10 pm

    great article by Allison, would like to put my hands on those 24/7 pencils

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:24 pm

      Thank you! The 24/7 liners are awesome, you’ll love them 🙂

      Reply
  2. All Women Stalker says

    December 26th, 2009 at 3:45 pm

    Little Black Dress of the makeup world –> so true.

    Thanks for the tips. I needed to read this post, obviously. I’ve been experimenting on smoky eyes and I feel that I need to improve.

    -meream

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:25 pm

      Good luck with the experimenting! Isn’t it fun? 🙂

      Reply
  3. amy says

    December 26th, 2009 at 3:45 pm

    Great tips! I love a smokey eye for the holidays or a night out.
    .-= amy’s last blog post… Bling Bling Nails NOTD Sephora OPI Nail Lacquer Too Good For Him =-.

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:29 pm

      Thank you! Yeah, the smokey eye is perfect for nights out and events.

      Reply
  4. Solé says

    December 26th, 2009 at 3:53 pm

    This post is all kinds of awesome. It is confirmation that I’ve been on the right track, but that no matter how much I think I know, there is always more I can learn from a professional. I’m going to try out those CVS brushes–they look like a great deal.

    Quick question: Do you apply The Multiple with a brush or your finger? You mentioned in item 5 that you use a fluffy brush to blend and apply highlight color but I didn’t know if you were referring to the browbone e/s or the creamy highlighter.

    Reply
  5. scarlettholly says

    December 26th, 2009 at 4:43 pm

    I’m definitely going to take a look at CVS brushes. Really good tips, and further proof that I really need to get NARS Copacabana!
    .-= scarlettholly’s last blog post… Saturday Surfing Round Up =-.

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:31 pm

      Thank you! Hope you love them both 🙂

      Reply
  6. Tiffany says

    December 26th, 2009 at 4:49 pm

    Great great tips!!! I need to work on practicing my smokey eyes!

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:31 pm

      Thanks, Tiffany! Have fun 🙂

      Reply
  7. Glosslizard says

    December 26th, 2009 at 5:13 pm

    Great info, thanks for sharing! 🙂

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:26 pm

      You’re welcome! Glad you liked the post.

      Reply
  8. Cat says

    December 26th, 2009 at 6:42 pm

    Awesome tips! I had never thought to blend in a circular motion. I’ll be adding that to my repertoire!

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:27 pm

      Yeah, blending in a circular motion really “smokes out” the shadow. Glad you liked the post!

      Reply
  9. Allie says

    December 26th, 2009 at 9:20 pm

    Glad that everyone liked it!!!

    Sole–I apply The Multiple with my finger, but I use a brush for powder shadows. Sorry, I should have clarified that.

    Reply
  10. Rati says

    December 26th, 2009 at 10:09 pm

    Great Post Allison. 🙂 I love doing smokey eyes because they look the best on me. 😛 Tips 7 was the one to die for.
    .-= Rati’s last blog post… Some Beauties from Colorbar Soft Touch and Lakme Bridal Sutra =-.

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:32 pm

      Thank you, Rati! The smokey eye is definitely my favorite too.

      Reply
  11. CC says

    December 26th, 2009 at 10:23 pm

    I’m definitely going to check out the makeup brushes at CVS. Thanks for the tip!

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:28 pm

      You’re welcome! Gotta love bargain makeup brushes that actually work 🙂

      Reply
  12. Moni says

    December 27th, 2009 at 1:33 am

    I’ve loved this post. Great tips & good writting. Thanks for sharing, Allison!

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:28 pm

      Thank you, Moni!

      Reply
  13. BlovetBeauty says

    December 27th, 2009 at 2:44 am

    i agree with having great brushes for a great smokey eye! I love to have tons of lashes to bring out the eyes!
    .-= BlovetBeauty’s last blog post… Merry Christmas! =-.

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:34 pm

      Good brushes and mega lashes are key. What kind of brushes do you use?

      Reply
  14. Ellie says

    December 27th, 2009 at 8:51 am

    Oh- I get it! Using different shades of the same color and blending! No wonder I had failed so miserably before.
    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:35 pm

      You’re welcome. Have fun practicing!

      Reply
  15. Allie says

    December 27th, 2009 at 9:51 am

    I’m glad everyone is finding this helpful! If you have any questions about the smokey eye or any other makeup questions, you can ask me here or email me at allisonbarbera@yahoo.com 🙂

    Reply
  16. Veky says

    December 27th, 2009 at 11:21 am

    I always put make up 1st on my eyes, and after I’m finished with my eyes I fix my face. 🙂 I hate shadow fallout and that way is much easier 🙂

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:36 pm

      Yeah, definitely. It’s so easy to just erase with some eye makeup remover and not have to worry about messing up the face makeup.

      Reply
  17. sunmom says

    December 27th, 2009 at 12:32 pm

    love this post! 🙂 it’s kind of amusing that too faced e/s insurance was posted as the base instead of udpp…is it true that e/s is more difficult to blend on top of udpp?

    Reply
  18. sandra says

    December 27th, 2009 at 1:23 pm

    Great post!!!! I could really use some tips as I seem to lost my “smokey eye skills” last Summer. THANKS!

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:37 pm

      Thank you, Sandra! Good luck getting your smokey eyes skills back. I’m sure it will come back to you in no time 🙂

      Reply
  19. Allie says

    December 27th, 2009 at 1:37 pm

    Hi Sunmom,

    Glad you liked it! I’ve found that it’s easier to blend with the Shadow Insurance as a base, and I know a few other makeup artists who feel the same way, but if the Primer Potion works for you, go for it! It’s definitely a good quality primer, I just find it to be less creamy than the Shadow Insurance.

    -Allison

    Reply
  20. J says

    December 27th, 2009 at 9:02 pm

    Thanks for the tips! I especially love all the product suggestions, theyre all so accessible 🙂

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:38 pm

      Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful 🙂

      Reply
  21. Sarah says

    December 28th, 2009 at 2:08 pm

    I used Allison on a movie shoot where she had to do multiple looks all in a short period of time. Not only is she the epitome of professionalism, but her work is outstanding. I would never hesitate to trust her advice–and these tips are awesome! Thanks Allison!

    Reply
    • Allie says

      January 3rd, 2010 at 6:39 pm

      Thanks, Sarah!!!! I hope we get to work together again some day 🙂

      Reply
  22. Karen says

    January 3rd, 2010 at 6:31 pm

    Allison, you rock! Thanks for sharing your insider smokey eye secrets. 🙂

    Reply
  23. Allie says

    January 3rd, 2010 at 6:39 pm

    Thanks for giving me the opportunity to share!

    Reply
  24. Cassandra Rae Ferguson says

    March 3rd, 2010 at 2:44 am

    I have found that the biggest obstacle in people achieving a great smokey eye is assumption! Firstly, they assume a smokey eye needs to be black. This is simply not true, as the term ‘smoke’ refers more to the method of using colour depth & soft blending (i.e. real smoke has no harsh edges) rather than the colour/s used.

    Secondly, they assume that a smokey eye needs to be really dark and/or harsh. Again, this is not true. It need be only as dark/deep as you feel comfortable.

    If you can get past these myths, try the tips in this article along with quality brushes and lots of practice, you will reign over the smokey eye eventually!
    .-= Cassandra Rae Ferguson’s last blog post… Cassandra Rae Ferguson – Professional Makeup Artist Sydney =-.

    Reply
  25. Emma says

    June 1st, 2010 at 11:33 am

    Thanks SO much for the tips! But I am going to do this eye makeup on the 9th of June (soon) and so I was wondering if you could give me a simpler explanation. 🙂 I live in Sweden so it won’t be as easy to find all of this, so if you could also tell me what you mean by the color shades and by for example primer (can I use vaseline?) then I would be extatic! Uum also, I am wearing a black dress with white polka dots and black shoes, I have blond/brown hair and green/grey eyes. Do you think this eyeshadow would look good on me and if not do you have any other eyeshadow suggestions? Thanks SO much,

    Emma x.

    Reply
    • Allie says

      June 2nd, 2010 at 10:07 am

      Hi Emma,

      Glad you liked the article! Let me try to get to all of your questions.

      1) Color shades are different colors in the same color family. So if you want to do a brown smokey eye, you’ll need a dark brown, a medium brown, a light brown. etc. You want the colors to blend into each other so you can’t tell where one ends and another one starts.

      2) I wouldn’t use Vaseline because it is way too greasy. If you can’t get a hold of an eye primer, try a cream based eyeshadow or even gel eyeliner in either the same color as your skin or in the same color family as the shadows you use.

      3) The color choice is really up to you! I think a gray and black or gray and silver smokey eye would look great. You could try something with purples, but that might be a little tricky.

      Please feel free to email me at allisonbarbera@yahoo.com with any other questions. Have fun at the wedding!

      -Allison

      Reply
  26. Emma says

    June 2nd, 2010 at 11:44 am

    Thanks again! Could you give me a walkthrough of how I am going to put the eyeshadow on though? I mean for example: You put the primer on, then start with dark black in the crease of your eye……………………….. don’t forget mascara as the last thing………… etc ? Because I am only 13 years old so I haven’t had enough practise to be able to just wing it 😛 I would really like to look proffesionally made up for my graduation which is the event I am attending. 🙂 Thanks

    -Emma x.

    Reply

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About Makeup and Beauty Blog

Welcome to Makeup and Beauty Blog
Hi there! I’m Karen, your friendly neighborhood beauty addict, and I’m a Bay Area girl who hoards brown eyeshadow and covets coral lipstick. Every morning, I wake up and say, “I’m going to do something other than a smoky eye today.” Then…I end up doing a smoky eye anyway (most days). When I’m not putting on makeup, taking pictures of makeup or writing about makeup, which I’ve been doing daily since 2007 (!), you’ll find me hanging out with my hubby (“El Hub”), my four-year-old daughter (Connor Claire) and my torbie girl cat (Pretty Girl Rosie, a.k.a. PGR).

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