Photo by sekushy
Some of the most inappropriately applied makeup products are the ones we use every day, like shine/shimmer products and setting powder. When used correctly, they can produce beautiful, subtle effects, but when used improperly things can go terribly, horribly, no-good, very badly wrong.
Let’s review some application techniques and tips to help you use shine/shimmer products and setting powders to perfection.
Shiny isn’t usually a word you want used in reference to your face. It brings to mind other less attractive words like greasy, oily, dirty — you get the picture. But no glow at all can make skin look flat, two-dimensional, dull, and expose things like large pores and dry patches (not a good look either).
What we want is a happy medium — a selective sheen — with a bit of “wetness” on the tops of our cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose, on the chin, and on our cupid’s bow. Everywhere else should be more or less matte.
To pinpoint exactly where to apply, stand almost directly under an overhead light, and note where the light highlights the planes of your face. We’ll call these your highpoints.
When you have some time to prepare, try using a cream or liquid foundation, and then dust a powder lightly over every part of your face except for your highpoints. Blot these areas with a tissue instead. This way, the moisture in your foundation will produce a skin-like gleam only where you want it to, and where one would appear naturally.
For a more satiny look — say, if you have naturally oily skin or find yourself in harsh lighting — try the reverse, applying the powder to your highpoints, while blotting the rest of your face with a tissue.
Over the course of the day, try misting your face with a bit of distilled water before refreshing your makeup. The temporary moisture will keep your skin looking more like healthy skin than settled foundation.
To sum up, remember that shine and shimmer act as highlighters. They bring features forward and make them appear more prominent, so if you think you have a big nose and want to minimize it, skip the enhancer, and matte it into submission instead.
Powder has texture, and texture, when it’s mixed with moisture, is a big hell nah for your face. If your face has too much moisture on it from your moisturizer and/or your foundation, powder will cling unevenly to your skin and settle or clump rather than bond.
Discolored blotches and raised areas may not be noticeable in low light or from a distance, but they will be easy to spot up close. Avoid this by blotting your face lightly with a tissue to remove excess oils and moisture before applying powder. If you have time to spare, take a disposable cosmetic sponge, and wrap a tissue around it like a Hershey’s Kiss. Use this to gently blot all over.
Often, powder problems have more to do with the powder than your application technique. Lower end powders and powders with bases containing corn starch are often not as finely milled as higher end brands, and the actual powder particles can be larger and irregularly shaped. Applying these, even lightly, can highlight differences in texture on the skin (things like scars, dry skin, etc.) and produce a bumpy, powdery look in pictures.
Instead, try to invest in higher end, silky powders with bases of silica or talc, and apply them with a puff rather than a brush (pushing powder into the skin with a puff makes it meld into your foundation, rather than sit on top). If you don’t have a puff handy, load the top of your brush with powder, and holding the bristles right above the ferrule, press and roll it into the skin as if it were a puff. You can also use a large flat-top kabuki for this.
Lastly, be careful not to sweep powder across your skin, as it can disturb and drag any previously applied products and leave you with a mottled, uneven finish. Instead, push and roll the puff or brush into your skin. It may sound silly, but place your middle finger in the middle of the back of the puff and pull either side up around it to form a sort of taco shape. Then, simply press onto the skin, and rock your finger side to side.
I hope you found these tips helpful. Now take control of your powder and shine!