Shu Uemura Makeup Tutorial: Go Pastel for a Fresh Spring Eye

Published in: Face of the Day (FOTD), Makeup, Makeup Tips/How To, Product Reviews

Last week I posted swatches of the eyeshadows from Shu Uemura’s new Spring Rebirth collection. There were five Easter egg-esque pastel colors in the group, each with an oh-so-purty white floral pattern, that promptly disappeared after I swatched ’em!


  • Pristine Green – light green (iridescent)
  • Sun Stream – light pastel orange (iridescent)
  • Earth Brown – warm brown (iridescent)
  • Spring Breeze – light pastel purple (pearl)
  • Yellow Elation – light yellow (pearl)

I’m not normally terribly attracted to pastel shades, but these colors are fun, easy to use, and have great color payoff. I combined them with Shu’s Tri-Color Eye Pencils (also from the Rebirth collection) and got in touch with my blossoming inner color diva.

The limited edition Tri-Color pencils, creme shadow pencils that can be used both as liner and eyeshadow base, come in two versions — cool-toned Aqua Flow and warm-toned Energy Flow ($25 each). Each “Flow” has three different colored pencil tips.


I really like these as a shadow base because they glide so easily onto lids and give the accompanying shadows a nice punch of color. The texture is thick without feeling heavy, and, remarkably, the formula lasts all day on my semi-oily eyelids. If you’ve got super oily lids, though, these might crease on ya after a few hours, so you might want to use a neutral colored lid primer beforehand! Utlimately, if you’re a fan of MAC Shadesticks, then you’ll dig these, fo’ sho.

To be honest, I rarely wear pastel colors on my eyes and didn’t really know what the heck to do with these colors! To get inspired I studied the Rebirth beauty shot…


And here’s what I came up with!

This was so much easier than I thought it would be!

First, grab the Energy Flow Tri-Color pencil and apply the yellow color directly beneath your brow bone, about 2/3 in from your outer brow. To the remaining 1/3, apply the orange color.


Now, smooth out any edges with a firm, flat brush like the MAC 239.


Next, apply the green shade from the Aqua Tri-Color pencil into your crease, going barely into the lid.


Directly beneath the green shade you just applied, add a thin layer of the yellow color from the Energy Flow pencil, and then an even thinner line of white right next to the lash line. Use the same 239 brush to smooth away any hard edges. The end result should look like a little something like this:


Use a crease brush to apply Pristine Green eyeshadow into your crease with a sweeping motion. For this I used a MAC 275 angled fluff brush with the pointy side facing my lash line.


Next, grab a thin pencil brush like the MAC 219 and apply a thin line of Yellow Elation eyeshadow onto the lid.


Blend out any hard lines with a blending brush like the MAC 217. Here’s what you should have so far:


Consider adding more definition to the crease by applying Spring Breeze eyeshadow with a crease brush in a sweeping motion. Here, I used a Sephora Shader Brush, a flat brush with a rounded tip.



Next, line the bottom lash line with the grey pencil tip from the Aqua Flow Tri-Color pencil.



Smudge Earth Brown eyeshadow on top of the grey layer you just added with a pencil tip brush.


Now, apply the white pencil to the inner lower lash line (the side closest to your nose)…


To complete the look, curl those lashes, add two coats of mascara on the tops and bottoms of your lashes (I used Shu Uemura’s Precise Volume Mascara Water Proof, $23), fill in your brows and you’re done!



Oh, and by the way, that’s Tranquil Pink Blush on my cheeks ($21) and Serene Pink Rouge Unlimited Lipstick ($23), both also from Shu’s Rebirth collection.

This look makes me feel spring-y, happy and bright! If you are a neutrals kinda girl but want to try more adventurous looks, I can’t recommend the Rebirth Shu eyeshadows enough. The colors blend well and aren’t excessively bright or scary. I would even feel comfortable wearing this pastel look out in public.

It’s finally sunny here after what has seemed like weeks of steady rain, so it’s been a great Monday so far. I hope your week is off to a spiffy start and that your coffee has kicked in! What eye makeup are you rocking today? Any pastels or colors of note?

Your friendly neighborhood beauty addict,



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So far, 65 people have commented on this article. How cool is that?

  1. Vanessa says:

    Great job! I think you look great! Cool pencils! They remind me of those mechanical pencils where you just pop them off one after another…cool idea and the pastels are perfect for Spring!

  2. Karen says:

    Thanks Ms. Vanessa! You are always inspiring me to try new colorful looks. I hope your week is off to a good start! Happy Monday 🙂

  3. Melissa says:

    Hi Karen!

    I love, love, love this look. You look so pretty. I can’t wait to get my hands on some of these colors. Thanks for an awesome post. There is nothing like pretty colors to get me going when I’m stuck at home with a sick kid!

  4. Karen says:

    Thanks Melissa! I’m glad you liked it. I was a lil’ nervous about trying it but now I think I’m a pastel shadow convert. Maybe oranges and pinks will be around the corner, who knows, the sky is the limit.

    I hope your little one feels better soon! 🙂

  5. Holly says:

    Wow that looks stunning! It would look gorgeous with all the pretty girly dresses that are coming out for spring!
    I would never in a million years be able to wear that though im nowhere near that adventurous!
    You lashes look great too, did you use the shu lash curler as well as their mascara? I think my heated eyelash curler is on its last legs, time to try something new i think!

  6. zoe says:

    WOW thank looks amazing on you, it really compliments your skintone and that blush makes you glow!

  7. Karen says:

    Hi Holly,

    LOL, I never thought I’d be this adventurous either. It’s very out of my usual makeup routine. It’s fun though! The best thing about it is that I don’t feel too drag queeny with it on, either!

    Yep, you’re right. I used the Shu Uemura curler along with the Precise Volume Waterproof Mascara. Precise Volume is great for lengthening and for holding the curl. It also doesn’t leave smudge marks. The only thing that I wish it did a bit better is to fatten up the lashes. If you have thicker lashes than me then I think you’d love it.

  8. Karen says:

    Hi Zoe,

    Thank you! Are you adventurous when it comes to your makeup colors? 🙂

  9. ponikuta says:

    OMG they remind me of crayons that I used to play with. So cute.

  10. Karen says:

    Hi Ponikuta,

    Me too! I totally had Sanrio Hello Kitty pencils just like this back in the day!

  11. Lilan says:

    Wow, Karen! It’s completely gorgeous and so refreshing! I wish it were spring already! I always wish that I had better makeup technique, but I can never seen to get the colors right in my crease. It always seems to be a blurry mess to me 🙁

  12. Mrs. Lynne says:

    I love Easter! I love finding eggs and all the cute candy!

    You did a good job Karen. Looks like soo much fun.

  13. Karen says:

    Hi Lilan,

    What brush are you using? That makes a big difference. A lot of people love the MAC 224 for the crease, but I’m not crazy about it because I feel it just gets gobs of color all over the place.

    Another thing that helps is to gently lift your eye brow up with the opposite hand before you start applying color to the crease. 🙂

  14. Karen says:

    Thanks Mrs. Lynne! I love, Easter too. I betcha it’s going to be so much fun for you with the lil’ ones! Easter egg coloring, hunts…how fun!

  15. Mrs. Lynne says:

    Yes! Last year we couldn’t do much because, well, Big Boy was still too young, but I bought plastic eggs last year and filled them with Kix since that was his favorite snack at the time. This time we’ll be able to do some actual egg coloring and hunting! He’ll have a blast, lol.

    The green color reminds me of the green from the Alexander McQueen collection. Sooo pretty. One thing I could not do though is white on my waterline. It made me look sooo shocked, lol.

  16. Karen says:

    Hi Mrs. Lynne! How fun! Easter is so much fun when you got the kiddies. (I remember my mom being annoyed by Easter grass; somehow my brother and I would always find a way to get it all over the house, LOL.)

    Did you end up getting anything from McQueen? It did nothing for me (although I do loves me some Liz Taylor).

  17. Mrs. Lynne says:

    I actually didn’t. That was pre-let-me-go-crazy MAC days. Well, maybe one collection before let-me-go-crazy MAC days, hah. I wouldn’t mind having either a paint pot or an eyeshadow from the collection. But even without it, I’m fine.

  18. ilovecheese says:

    I think it’s amazing! You look gorgeous.

  19. Jot says:

    I love this look. Its so beautiful. I’m too dedicated to MAC to stray to Shu however the colours remind me a little of the fafi eyes 2 pallet so if i choose that one when it comes out i’ll be giving this a go for sure x

  20. Karen says:

    Ha! “Let me go crazy at MAC”. I find my going crazy at MAC quotient is proportional to my stress level, LOL. Last week I did some serious haul-age!

  21. Karen says:

    Thanks, I Love Cheese! 🙂

    Every time I see your handle I want to eat some Gouda…

    Hope your week is going well so far!

  22. Karen says:

    Hi Jot,

    I’m a MAC junkie too, but seriously, give the Shu shadows a try. They are truly worth their weight.

  23. Crystal says:

    Karen you look amazing! even better than the model 🙂

  24. Karen says:

    Awww, thank you Crystal! I was thinking that the next time I try this I’ll try more yellow under the lashline but I’m afraid it might take it too far in terms of my color comfort.

    Are you a brights kinda girl? Or do you wear browns and neutrals? 🙂

  25. Ping. says:

    oh my Karen, you really did a good job. the pastel colour make everything look more brighter and youthful. its all good.

  26. zoe says:

    I would love to say i was adventurous but i am not sure, ill use almost all colors except blue and green because i think they make me look so ugly 🙁 I wish i was less pale cool toned and freckly so i could get away with it but oh well 🙂

  27. Karen says:

    Hi Ping,

    Thank you! I’ve been itching so badly for spring and these colors make me so happy! 🙂 Are you having a good day so far?

  28. Karen says:

    Hey Zoe,

    You know, I never would’ve thought I’d be able to wear greens and blues, either. This was a big stretch for me. I usually limit it to a subtle splash here or there, like a thin blue line on my upper lash line.

    Do you wear oranges and pinks and reds? Now those colors scare me, LOL!

  29. Mrs. Lynne says:

    I believe my purchases could be proportional tied with stress also, lol. So I guess for the sake of the wallet, I need to do some stress management, lol.

  30. Amanda says:

    that’s it-i’m going to get yellow elation… if possible. those pencils look very interesting-I loved being able to “see” them used. Your final look is very pretty and spring-y!

  31. Karen says:

    Hi Mrs. Lynne,

    Yup. We should start a makeup stress management program…and then pitch the reality TV show to Bravo or VH1, LOL!

    Or maybe I should just do more yoga or deep breathing or something. I swear when I buy MAC my heart rate goes back to normal and I feel like all is right with the world.

  32. Karen says:

    Hi Amanda!

    Thanks girl! You know, I didn’t know how I was going to feel about the pencils but once I got ’em on I really liked them. They glide on so easily, which I love (I hate it when pencils tug at your lids, blech!).

    Have fun with your yellow elation…just be ready to deal with the pretty pattern going away when you dig into it.

  33. Mrs. Lynne says:

    LOL! Maybe we’ll be featured around “Intervention” of “True Life”, hah.

    I find that when I’m going to MAC (in the car knowing that I’m driving to the store) and once I’ve come out of MAC that I do have a smile on my face and I’m happier. Interesting how a little makeup therapy can soothe the soul 😉

  34. Lilan says:

    Hey Karen,

    I’m using kind of a fluffy angled brush right now and I think that may be my issue. I’ll check out the MAC brush as well as the Sephora one you used. Do you like that one?

    I haven’t tried lifting my brow either. These tips are great, I’m going to practice this weekend 🙂

    And if you and Mrs. Lynne get that TV show, I’d totally watch!

    Happy Super Tuesday!!!

  35. Megan says:

    Karen…so I commented at the beginning of the year that I needed to resolve to do some brighter eye shadows and not be a scaredy cat. You’ll be happy to note that I have been following through…and this FOTD just further inspires me…although I’m not sure I’m brave enought for it just yet. 🙂

  36. Karen says:

    Hi Mrs. Lynne,

    I know right? I just wish it was as cheap as it was when I drugstore haul! *sigh*

  37. Crystal says:

    Well i LOVE bright colors so much, but i havent mastered it yet.. so for now i just wear them abround the house untill i feel more comfortable going out in them, but usually at work its neutrals .. boring 🙁

  38. Karen says:

    Heya Lilan,

    The Sephora brush is pretty good! I like it much better than the MAC 224. I use the 224 more for blending. So many people love it though, I think I just am too clumsy to get it right!

  39. Karen says:

    Hi Megan,

    Yay! Kudos to you on trying new looks. 🙂 This pastel eye was a big step for me; a few years ago I would’ve never even thought to do it.

    What new colors have you been trying? Pinks? Blues? Greens? 🙂

  40. Karen says:

    Hi Crystal,

    To tell you the truth, the first time I tried this eye I wasn’t ready to go out in public. It does take a while to get used to if you’re not the bright shadow type. One thing that I’ve done in the past is to do my eyes up and then go to the MAC counter! I never feel out of place there with crazy color on! 🙂

  41. Lilan says:

    Hey Karen,

    Is it this one?

    I like that the Sephora brushes are pretty reasonably priced! 🙂

  42. Karen says:

    Hi Lilan,

    I don’t know if it’s that one exactly, but if you take a look at the shader brush in the Sephora Smokey Eye kit (which is where I got the brush from), then you’ll be able to find a comparable brush:

  43. Rowena says:

    Oh I love this look! Gorgeous!

    I have the energy flow pencil in the orange and I don’t like it so far, but I am going to try it out and use it how you did 😉

  44. Megan says:

    I don’t have them handy at the moment, but one was this metallic red MAC that I got a while back and never used. I bought a yellow/gold pigment from Loreal HIP and also another HIP that has a dark grey with a teal…and I used the teal one day… I was pretty proud of myself. Honestly though…I really liked the yellow/gold pigment…It surprised me.

  45. zoe says:

    I love oranges but most of the time do a sunsett sort of eyes with them or with bronzey colors, I also like pinks but tend to pink them int o purples 🙂

  46. Gilly says:

    Karen: muchas gracias por tu paso a paso con esta colección maravillosa de Uemura. Te ves genial!!!! Yo también soy de tez morena como tú y gracias a tu blog, probaré estos colores. También me gusta mucho el esmalte amarillo de la colección (yellow nail lacquer)….Lo compraste?

  47. Karen says:

    Hola Gilly,

    Okay, so I have to come clean. I took about one year of Spanish in college and to tell you the truth all I can do is order food and say please and thank you. I had to run your comment through a translater to understand it. 🙂 But I do get the gist of it, so I wanted to say thank you so much! I am glad you enjoy reading the blog. Shu Uemura makes some fantastic shadows and I know you’ll enjoy them! Take care and hope we can “chat” soon! 🙂

  48. Svhetta says:

    Your blog makes me happy. Thanxs!
    Now if only you could review all of our beauty products in
    Tokyo! Kanebo, Shiseido, Kose! Yikes!


  49. lindsay says:

    i was thinking about buying the precise volume mascara..does it give you lots of length AND volume? i tried fiber xtension but it doesn’t hold up a curl 🙁

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